The Great Controversy- “Hand-made or Machine-Made”
Last week I began to write my blog on the question of hand
versus machine made products. I then
got distracted by writing a review of Mary Schoeser’s book, “Textiles”. I promised to return to the original subject
this week.
Before I begin my thoughts on the subject, I wish to correct
a fundamental error, that is, the notion that products
labeled “hand- made” are made entirely by hand. Such labels lead us to assume this to be true, but I assure you
this has never been the case. Since the
appearance of our very distant cousin, “Homo habilis” or “handy man”, man has
used simple tools to assist with tasks. These tools gradually became more
complex and man began employing simple machines such as the pulley, lever and
screw to complete his work. Webster’s
dictionary describes simple machines as those “devices that transmit or change
the application of energy, such as the lever, the wheel and screw…”.
Looking at early textile history, we must consider the use
of machines. Webster again defines a
machine as “ a structure consisting of a framework and various fixed and moving
parts, for doing some kind of work”.
So how about a loom?
From the most simple device to
modern power looms, does this not apply? Or take the spinning wheel, you get my point. When a sweater is said to be entirely hand-
made does that mean the wool was hand-sheered, hand-spun by drop spindle,
hand-plied, hand-dyed ? Of course
not. Even the most creative craftsperson takes advantage of electric shears
and a wheel, while most knitters rely on purchased fibers, whether they then
do their own spinning and dyeing or purchase skeins of ready to use wool. And
what of purchased synthetic yarns?
Another example is to refer to hand-made quilts. I made many quilts, but I did not gin my own
cotton fiber, spin and dye it, weave it into cloth. Some quilts I hand- pieced
or appliquéd, others I used a most useful device, my sewing machine. Therefore, I plead my case that we must
rethink our terminology. Perhaps a more
accurate term would be “hand-crafted” or “artisan –made” and instead of
“machine-made” we could refer to those products as having been
“commercially-manufactured”.
Now to our original question of comparing “hand-crafted” and
“commercially-manufactured” products, specifically, textiles. Can we agree that much depends upon
quality? I have encountered, as have
you, many outstanding textiles created by the most skilled and imaginative
artists with considerable talent. On
the other side of the spectrum, I have seen some poorly constructed
attempts. Modern technology has
contributed so very much to the fields of design, weaving and printing. Modern workshops and factories can produce
aesthetically acceptable materials or, because the managers have not maintained
their machinery nor properly trained their workers, produce poor-quality goods
with mis-matched patterning and obvious defects.
I believe it comes done to the end-use of the textile. In a perfect world, unique goods of the
highest quality would be available to all at a reasonable price. However, no one has ever implied we live in
a perfect world. I believe you should
buy the best quality merchandise you can comfortably afford, whether it is
textiles or pots and pans or a living room sofa. Reason dictates that there is a difference between the purchase
of a quilt which is to become a family heirloom and a comforter for your four
year old’s bed. Your tween daughter may
think purple carpeting is rad this year and next year it is an entirely
different story.
But just because we do not always purchase museum-quality
textiles for daily use does not mean we cannot appreciate their beauty and the
complexity of their construction. Today
there are dozens of publications available to increase our knowledge of
textiles, classes in design, museum lectures on their collections. When I worked at a museum back east we were
taught that information leads to understanding and with understanding we learn
appreciation. Developing an appreciation
for textile-art (and I consider all textiles, art) would be a very worthwhile resolution for this and every new year.
