Eyelet
Eyelet fabric can be described as a combination of lace and
embroidery. It can be found in a
variety of patterns which cover the fabric surface from selvage to
selvage. Usually produced in white but
occasionally it can be found in colors.
The design is punched into the fabric ground by a series of
knives called bohers. The “hole is then
stitched to prevent fraying.
In the 1860’s an early hand-operated embroidery machine was
developed, subsequently, a 24 needle machine was produce which could be powered
by hand or electricity.. This machine
was known as the “schiffli”, German for boat.
Programs were written in punch paper( somewhat similar to Jacqard
weaving and computer punch cards).
Early schiffli machine circa 1910. Note the machine operator is following the punch pattern.
Today a modern schiffli machine is 65 feet long and 16 feet
high, containing 1,020 needles.. Most manufacturers in the US using these
embroidery machines are in New Jersey. These
machines are computer run.