Saturday, December 31, 2016
Thursday, December 22, 2016
Saturday, December 10, 2016
Burlap
B is for BURLAP
Continuing with my alphabetical listing of textile terms
(see my blog “ARALAC”, 11/12/16) today is the letter B.
I have already written several “B’s” :Batik
Burkini
Buttons
Blackwork
Burton
(Virginia Lee)
There are many other "B" textile references: buckram, brodade,
Berlin work, but our subject is BURLAP.
Also called Hessian, Burlap is a coarse, rough, heavy
plain-weave fabric made from jute or hemp fiber..The fabric was first imported from India in the 19th C. The term Hessian refers to the coarse, heavy uniforms worn by the Hessian troops of Hesse (Germany)
Because it is known for its durability and strength, poor grades
of the fabric are used for sacking and upholstery backing, however it frays
easily and has poor washability.
Better grades are bleached and/or dyed and are used in the
craft industry. For years burlap has
been used as the ground fabric for rug hooking. With special finishing treatments burlap can become a smooth,
attractive finishing fabric.
Saturday, December 3, 2016
Christmas Giving
Christmas giving
Each year, around this time. I get requests for
textile-related gift suggestions. I
usually suggest visits to thrift or antique shops for vintage table linens,
hankies, hand crochet doilies, etc.
This year I thought of another idea. Why not visit your neighborhood bookstore
(used books or new). There are many
magazines and books for every textile enthusiast . Whether your gift is for a quilter, knitter, weaver, fashion
follower or collector a subscription to
a related magazine is possible.
You might try giving just one copy to see if they really love it and
then complete the subscription.
For others, there
are reference books and coffee-table flashy editions in a huge range of
topics. The advantage of shopping
locally is the book can be returned if it is not suitable and a gift certificate can be issued. There are also fiction and mystery books
with textile themes .
Do not overlook the selection of “gently used” books. Often, out of print books are not only
affordable but valuable references. My
last suggestion is a textile dictionary, encyclopedia or sourcebook.
If your recipient lives in a city near a textile or art
museum with a large textile collection, how about a museum membership? Or a membership to my favorite organization,
The Textile Society of America. There
are textile guilds in most cities:
Embroidery guild, Weaving and Spinning guild, Quilting guild and membership
fees are generally quite reasonable.
Thoughtful gifts such as these will bring year-long enjoyment.
Happy shopping!!
Sunday, November 20, 2016
Saturday, November 12, 2016
ARALAC
A is for…ARALAC
I decided to do an occasional series of textile themes in
alphabetical order. Taking inspiration
from one of my favorite mystery writers, Sue Grafton, who uses the alphabet to
title her books ( “A is for Alibi” etc.)
I have already written several “As”: Armor
Aloha
shirts
Arpilleras
Antimacassars
Arsenic
There are many textile As: acrylic, acetate, alpaca, angora
and others. But, ARALAC?
The story of this textile fiber is innovative and
imaginative. Remember the alchemists
who tried to combine various compounds to produce gold, well, chemists
throughout history have tried to manipulate certain elements to produce new
innovations.
Textile fibers, wool and silk, have always been considered
high end (and expensive) . For many
years there was a search for fibers
that could be created from common
ingredients, much in the way rayon and acetate were created from
cellulose that was chemically manipulated.
This became especially important during the years between World Wars I
and II. Cloth produced from natural
fibers was in great demand. Cotton for
bedding and military uniforms, silk for parachutes, wool for uniforms…..all
were in short supply. Therefore the requirement for new fibers
became paramount.
Work was being conducted on a class of fibers termed
Azion. Fibers in this class are made
from regenerated proteins such as milk, soybeans, peanuts and corn. According
to archives at the National Museum of American History, credit is given to H.
Irving Crane and a group of chemists
working at the Atlantic Research Associates, Inc. which specialized in the
development of products from the milk protein, casein ( ARA was a division of
National Dairy Products Corp. which was later to be absorbed by Kraft Foods).
The casein required for Aralac was formed by adding acid to
milk to form the curd (casein) which was collected from small and large
creameries. One hundred pounds of milk
was required to produce 3.7 pounds of casein, which would produce 3.7 pounds of
fiber. From the casein, crystals were formed by evaporation and then ground and
dissolved into a solution.
The solution was processed by forcing it through spinnerets
and hardened in a chemical bath. During World War II Aralac was blended with
rayon and acetate for use in civilian dress fabric and,, interestingly, felted
hats. Other uses were tested
(carpeting, knitting yarn, lace) but it was not deemed satisfactory due to its
poor strength and difficulty in dyeing. Purchasers of the clothing products had
a unique complaint: when wet, the
fabric smelled like cheese!!!
Production was halted in 1948.
As we all know, the search for alternative synthetic fibers
and methods of their production
continued and endless possibilities seem inevitable.
Sunday, October 30, 2016
TSA - 15th Biennial Symposium
TSA 15th Biennial Symposium- Savannah
This year TSA partnered with SCAD-Savannah College of Art
and Design- to present an exploration of the cultural crosscurrents that shape
textile production and practice.
More than 400 TSA members from 22 countries attended the 5
day symposium held in Savannah, Georgia.
From the opening reception at SCAD Museum of Art to the closing awards
banquet the days were filled with seminars, site visits and tours. Independent researchers and historians, like
myself, who are not affiliated with large institutions or museums feel, at
times, isolated from others in our field.
Frequently, we are not always in the immediate loop of the most current
information available. Seminars such as
this are the perfect opportunity to confer with colleagues and renew
connections.
The wide scope of areas of textile studies was examined in
seminars and study sessions. Topics
included fibers and their production, technique of fabric manufacture, fashion,
costume, dyes and design, museum studies
and collections. This year also
emphasized what was termed “cross-currents”.
That is, the importance of trade, historically and currently. The world is not so very large and the “transnational flow of textiles” as a
result of global trading explains much of the history of textiles and continues
to be a major factor in today’s world economy.
The host city of Savannah was a most exciting venue for the
symposium. Culturally, historically and
down-right lovely it is well worth visiting.
I regret that I could not have stayed longer and, although this was not
my first visit, it will definitely not be my last.
For more information about the Textile Society of America, including membership and additional
programs, please visit their website http://textilesocietyofamerica.org.
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