Friday, August 31, 2012

Labor Day


Celebrating the contribution of workers, Labor Day, the first Monday in September, was made a federal holiday in 1894.    Many other countries have special days to honor their working people.  Let’s go back in history to study the evolution of the worker’s movement. 

Earliest man lived in groups, clans and family tribes where, presumably, all contributed in some way for the survival of the group.  It wasn’t until these groups and tribes came together to form settlements, of sorts, that duties became more specialized.  Also, at this time, there came to be another source for labor, slavery.
So from early times there were always peoples who had been captured in tribal wars, the intellectually challenged and the dissidents who became enslaved to work the fields and perform the laborious (and onerous) tasks others preferred not to take on.  As man evolved and civilizations gradually created large, central cities the need for this enforced labor pool became an economic necessity.  All the “great” civilizations relied upon this labor source. 

Now we come to the end of those “great” civilizations where the cities outgrew the ability of the authorities to provide the goods and services necessary to sustain them, and man left the urban life for the rural, agricultural way of life of the past.  However, there was a great difference between the very earliest settlements and those of the Middle Ages. In Europe, by 900 CE there were more than 200 great families of the aristocracy (called the higher nobility) and these families owned more than 80% of the arable land. The social hierarchy of those days was :
                                                            #1 the Church with the Pope as the ultimate authority.  His power exceeded the kings and emperors of the European countries.
                                                             #2 the Middle Class, consisting of knights, gentry and yeomen
 ( freeholders who worked their own land)
                                                              #3 and virtually everyone else

Thus was born the feudal system, the manorial economic system in which the landholder used the social classes below him for his support.  The knights pledged their allegiance to fight for their manor lord, often having to supply their own horses and weaponry.
But the basis for this social system rested with the serfs, the lowest of group #3.  Now the serfs were not, strictly speaking, slaves.  They were workers bound to the land but were allowed property for their own use after having tended the property of the landowner.  Some serfs were workers in simple manufactory, craft and agricultural-related fields.  For their work they were granted the protection of the landlord.  Serfs were permitted to marry whomever they chose but could not leave the land of their lord.  They, themselves, were not the property of the landowner, but their forced labor was.

By the late middle ages the feudal system was gradually replaced by strong royalty-based states in England and Europe.  Trade was of major importance and guilds gradually were introduced into the social structure.  Some refer to guilds as the forerunners of the workers unions.  However, there were many differences in the organization of guilds and their later counterparts, unions.  A guild had to be chartered by the king (or equivalent in whatever country) and was managed on a local level under the authority of the town or city.  But the primary purpose of the guild, unlike a union was not the protection of the members but protection of their product.  In large centers nearly every occupation was under the representation of a guild.  The guilds wielded a fair amount of power.  The rules for membership in a guild were strict and members were divided into apprentices, journeymen and masters.  Each guild laid down rules concerning the quality of its product, methods of manufacture and the price.  This system of monopoly could potentially lead to abuse and it was up to the royal government to oversee the guilds, but where there were small, self-governing towns the system was often not controlled.

Textile guilds such as spinners, weavers, dyers and fullers as well as silk-making were among the earliest guilds.  London’s first chartered guild was the weaver’s guild.

Generally, women were excluded from guild membership, some allowed women to join but not in full participation.

Although there were obvious advantages in the guild system, one of the main disadvantages lay in the fact that the guild controlled all methods of manufacturey. This prevented innovation and if a group decided to use newer methods they were forced to leave the guilds.  One such example was the fullers of the wool industry. They turned to water-power and were then locating their mills in rural areas to avoid the guilds. 
As other innovations were developed the power of the guilds was diminished.

The system of trade unionism, many years later was an important influence on the textile industry and , perhaps, I will leave that discussion for next week.


Thursday, August 23, 2012

Magical Mirrors and Special Shells


 There is something irresistible about a mirror.  It dazzles, it shines and it reflects light so that you can see your own image when you open your compact.  Who can resist checking yourself out when passing a mirror in a store in the off chance you have become the twin of Audrey Hepburn, while crossing the parking lot.  (I happen to think Miss Hepburn was the most beautiful and classiest woman).  Shiny elements are so attractive they are used in luring us to buy lurex and satin and dresses with rhinestones, not to mention diamond baubles to wear to the palace.  Advertisers have a field day with mirrors and reflective surfaces.

The earliest mirrors were hand mirrors and by the 1st century CE they were made to reflect the whole body.  These early mirrors were made of highly polished metal.  The use of glass, which was then backed with a metallic coating, was perfected by the Venetians during the Middle Ages.  Today mirrors are made by applying a thin coating of aluminum or silver onto a plate of glass in a vacuum.

To certain ethnic peoples mirrors play a very different role, one of protection.  Some believe, especially in the Islamic world, that mirrors can trap the Evil Eye holding it forever. And because mirrors can also refract (refraction is bending the light ray) it can disperse the power of the Evil Eye.  To those unfamiliar with the concept of the Evil Eye, it simply means that some people possess the power of harming others merely by looking at them.  I believe I have actually met such people.  So it is not unusual to find textiles embellished with small mirrors or other reflective objects in NW India into Afghanistan, Central and Eastern Europe and W. Sumatra  where there is a history if Islamic influence.


So onto the Special Shells.  The cowrie shell of the mollusk cypraea moneta, is one of the most powerful of all embroidery embellishments thought to possesses magical powers of protection and to bring good fortune to the wearer of the garment.  The white cowrie is found in the Indian Ocean around the Maldive Islands. This shallow water species is found around reefs and rocky shores.   It was widely accepted as trade and currency.  The shells were embroidered onto royal robes of Africa and headdresses and animal trappings from India to the Middle East.

It is in the textiles of India that the combination of small round mirrors and cowrie appear most often.







































The mirrors, originally small bits of mica, now glass or even plastic, are held in place with a few cross stitches and then securely fastened with a button-hole like stitch.  They are not scattered randomly but are usually found to be placed as the eye of an embroidered animal or the center of a flower.  





These plastic "mirrors", ready for use, were purchased as craft supplies



Woman's embroidered head scarf







Embroidered tables cover. Note the mirrors as eyes of the birds and elephant and also as centers of the flowers




Animal forehead cover. Mirrors and cowries shells are used.

Friday, August 17, 2012

Fabric is Faster than Skin





Like millions of other sports fans my husband, Ian and I watched as much of the Olympic Games as we could.  One night while watching swimming competition, Ian observed that “fabric is faster than skin”, referring to the high-tech swimwear that the athletes wore. As I always look for textiles in every situation, I considered including the innovations in sportswear manufacture in today’s blog. 

Adapting clothing and other textiles to environmental conditions is not a new concept.  From earliest days man sought to improve his lifestyle by making improvements to the manner in which textiles were produced, often by trial and error.  Ancient warriors reinforced their body wear with elements from wicker to metal.  The Chinese are credited with the production of asbestos and used this mineral as fireproofing for their firemen.
In April I wrote about the early processes of waterproofing fabric for making rain wear using rubber. Today there are various methods using polyester and polyurethane films, various immersions and other techniques.  There is a very large, detailed website from REI called “Rainwear and How it Works”.

Of course every athletic activity has its own requirements for athletic wear for their athletes.  Often individual participants have their own preferences.  But one does not have to be a professional nor spend hours seeking the newest textile innovations.  Of course there is Internet shopping, but nearly every town has many sources for apparel from big box stores to small specialty sports stores.  Sports such as cycling and running require lightweight wicking fabrics.  Wicking fabrics keep the wearer comfortable by allowing perspiration to wick thru the fabric, keeping cooler in heat and warmer in cold.  The properties of many fabrics do not satisfy this criteria of breathability, polyester for one.

Other outdoor activities  require sun protection.  Many textiles have UV protection, which is important for everyone, but critical for children.

Of course not all outdoor activities are practiced in the warm summer months.  Winter sports need clothing that is lightweight and can retain body heat.

Just as new technology improved tennis rackets, baseball bats and golf clubs, the new sports fabrics can  make our experiences in the gym, on the courts and in the pool more enjoyable.  But they probably will never improve my tennis game.

Fabric is Faster than Skin




Like millions of other sports fans my husband, Ian and I watched as much of the Olympic Games as we could.  One night while watching swimming competition, Ian observed that “fabric is faster than skin”, referring to the high-tech swimwear that the athletes wore. As I always look for textiles in every situation, I considered including the innovations in sportswear manufacture in today’s blog. 

Adapting clothing and other textiles to environmental conditions is not a new concept.  From earliest days man sought to improve his lifestyle by making improvements to the manner in which textiles were produced, often by trial and error.  Ancient warriors reinforced their body wear with elements from wicker to metal.  The Chinese are credited with the production of asbestos and used this mineral as fireproofing for their firemen.
In April I wrote about the early processes of waterproofing fabric for making rain wear using rubber. Today there are various methods using polyester and polyurethane films, various immersions and other techniques.  There is a very large, detailed website from REI called “Rainwear and How it Works”. REI.com

Every  activity has its own requirements for athletic wear for their athletes.  Often individual participants have their own preferences.  But one does not have to be a professional nor spend hours seeking the newest textile innovations.  Of course there is Internet shopping, but nearly every town has many sources for apparel from big box stores to small specialty sports stores. 




Sports such as cycling and running require lightweight wicking fabrics.  Wicking fabrics keep the wearer comfortable by allowing perspiration to wick thru the fabric, keeping cooler in heat and warmer in cold.  The properties of many fabrics do not satisfy this criteria of breathability, polyester for one.

Other outdoor activities  require sun protection.  Many textiles have UV protection, which is important for everyone, but critical for children.





Of course not all outdoor activities are practiced in the warm summer months.  Winter sports need clothing that is lightweight and can retain body heat.




 


Just as new technology improved tennis rackets, baseball bats and golf clubs, the new sports fabrics can  make our experiences in the gym, on the courts and in the pool more enjoyable.  But they probably will never improve my tennis game.

Friday, August 10, 2012

Colcha Embroidery


Every year Santa Fe hosts the Traditional Spanish Market sponsored by the Spanish Colonial Arts Society.  This year was the 61st Annual Market. This juried fair features traditional Spanish crafts by fabulous artisans.  One of the craft categories is Colcha Embroidery.



Colcha, in Spanish, means a bed covering and in the context of embroidery is actually the name of the stitch used to create elaborate designs.  This wool on wool embroidery is referred to as sabanilla labrada, which may have been developed in New Mexico during the Spanish Colonial Period.  Sabanilla is a loosely woven wool fabric made from homespun yarns in natural colors.  It was traditionally woven in 30 inch widths which were seamed if intended for a bed covering.  They were also used for altar covers, rugs and furniture covers.  



The handspun embroidery yarns were dyed green, yellow, indigo and red in addition to the natural colors of the sheep’s wool.  These textiles are usually finished with a fringe.  Motifs include florals and designs resembling Indian chintz, which were popular in Spain during the colonial period.  There are needle-workers who use a non-traditional wool on cotton technique, however the most prized colchas created today are made in the traditional manner.

 I have the privilege of knowing a remarkable needlewoman, Nina A Wood.  She has participated in Spanish Market for several years displaying her ribbon winning textiles, being awarded a blue ribbon in this years Market.  You go girl!

 














































Photos produced here with permission of Nina Wood



For more information on traditional Spanish crafts, The Spanish Market and the Spanish Colonial Arts Society please contact
Spanish Colonial Arts Society
750 Camino Lejo on Museum Hill
Santa Fe, New Mexico 87505



Friday, August 3, 2012

19thC Handmade Lingerie Trim




The late Victorian and early Edwardian period of fashion heralded an unprecedented passion for all things lacey, embroidered and beribboned.  It was not only the upper class that could enjoy luxuries, but the emerging middle class demanded such embellishments for both their clothing and for their home. Huge hats decorated with French ribbon flowers and veils, gowns of silk with tiers of ruffles,and silk gloves were no longer exclusively for the rich.  Less opulent (and less costly) garments and household furnishings were being manufactured for an entirely new market.  Shortly after the turn of the century the life style of the middle class family changed dramatically.  While the wife and mother was still expected to remain at home nurturing the family and bringing culture and grace to the environment, many modern innovations had made this task less time consuming.  The invention of the sewing machine years earlier, the telephone, the washing machine, not to mention the vacuum cleaner and refrigerator gave women more time to pursue the activities that before only wealthy women with servants could enjoy.

The popularity of mail-order catalogs, coming right to your door, brought the latest fashion trends.

If you could not afford to replace your wardrobe, you could always update your look by embellishing your attire at home with the help of  patterns and instructions through magazine advertisements and pattern books.  One very popular activity was making yokes and bodices for corset covers, and other undergarments and lacey neckline trim for nightwear.  Most often crochet technique was used although there were many knitted lace and tatted yokes produced.  One advantage to these trimmings was that, unlike machine made lace featured on ready-to-wear garments, these yokes were actually quite sturdy, made of cotton thread and often outlasted the garment upon which they were sewn (probably several garments as these can still be found today in vintage shops).  Often silk ribbons were woven through the crochet or knitted netting and these could be changed to update the look.



 

























Lovely tatted yoke















Filet crochet features a grid pattern created by combining solid and open meshes with chain and double crochet stitches.