Pina –Fiber of the Philippines
Imagine making a luxurious, diaphanous cloth from a
pineapple. The fiber is a leaf fiber
from the red pineapple. The long fibers
cannot be spun but are hand knotted to form the warp and weft yarns. The plain weave yardage is produced on
upright looms in small workshops.
Pineapple is an herbaceous perennial, 2 ½ to 5 feet in
height with a spread of 3-4 feet. The
plant is native to Brazil and Paraguay.
The South American Indians spread the plant throughout the rest of South
and Central America where Columbus discovered the fruit on the island of
Guadeloupe in 1493 and brought it back to Spain. In the 16th C Spain introduced the plant into the
Philippine Islands..
Sheer pina cloth was a perfect ground for intricate embroidery
techniques taught by Spanish nuns.
During the late 18thC and early 19thC there was a high demand for intricate lace-like textiles, however by the
1850’s the labor intensive production was too costly. There was competition from factory- produced goods and the
cottage industry faltered.
NEEDLECRAFT - the Magazine of Home Arts Auguat 1930 |
In the 1990’s there was a renewed interested in this textile
by fashion designers working with the government. Some innovations in manufacture included using native and
synthetic dyes to produce a variety of colors.
Combining the pina fibers with other plant fibers created cloth more
sturdy and easier to weave. Combined
with abaca, another fiber long used in the region, the cloth is called
“justi”. Combining pina with silk warp
threads produces a cloth called pina-seda.
From the Rainbow's Varied Hue - Textiles of the southern Philiuppines Roy W,. Hamilton, Ed. UCLA Fowler Museum of Cultural History, L.A. 1998 |
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